Huron-Kinloss Community Septic Inspection Program Travels the Globe

• In June  this blog was created to provide another venue for Huron-Kinloss residents to learn about and keep up-to-date on their septic systems and this important community septic inspection program               
• From June 20 – Dec. 23 the blog has had 1,800 visitors
• 58% of the visitors have been from Canada and 26% from the U.S.
• Visitors have also been from Australia, India, Ukraine, Russia, Germany, United Kingdom, Indonesia and Africa
• To date the top two viewed pages have been “Holding Tanks” and “Can’t Find Your Septic Tank" 

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Video Monday - Leaching Field Installation

 Here's a great time lapse video of the installation of a leaching field.

Soils and Septic Systems

Photo credit: www.mfkelly.ie

Much of the treatment in the leaching field is done by soil. As wastewater passes through the leaching field and is slowly released to the soil, the soil filters it, removing nutrients and pathogens. The ability of the soil to act as a filter, however, is dependent on the type of soil particles. Certain types of soil are great filters, and others are not, and for this reason it is important to know what type of soil you have prior to installing a leaching field.

Before a leaching field is approved and installed, a test hole must be dug to expose the soil. At minimum, test holes must be 1 metres wide and 1.5 metres deep. Once the test hole is dug, the types of soil present can be identified in a soil profile. A soil profile may state: 15 cm of sandy topsoil, 30 cm of silty sand, 65 cm of granular sand and clay at 1.5 metres. The types of soil present in the profile will determine whether the site is appropriate for a leaching field or not and whether material will have to be imported.

When installing a leaching field, the designer of the system is responsible for determining the T-time, also known as the percolation rate of the soil. It is the average time (in minutes) required for water to drop one centimeter in the soil. The T-time will tell you how permeable the soil. The soil must be permeable to allow the wastewater to move through it, but not so permeable that the wastewater moves through the soil too quickly and is not properly treated. If the soil is found to drain either too quickly (gravelly or course sand) or too slowly (clays), you may have to import a more appropriate soil for the runs of your leaching field. 

Landscaping and Your Septic System - A Plant Guide

Landscaping over your septic system does not have to be limited to turf grass:

• A mix of grasses and wildflowers can create a great meadow cover which will help enhance the performance of your system.

• Native plants make a great choice because they have already adapted to their surrounding environment, resulting in less maintenance for you.

• Avoid planting "invasive plant species".  To find out the best plants for your area check out Evergreen.ca which offers a Native Plant Database (http://nativeplants.evergreen.ca/search/advanced.php)

• Also avoid planting trees and shrubs that will grow and develop large root systems, over or near the tank or leaching bed as they will interfere with the proper operation of the septic system

Septage: The story after the pump-out

It is recommended that septic tanks are pumped every 3-5 years, but have you ever wondered what happens after the pump out; where the sludge collected from your tank goes?

Photo credit: klamathriverkeeper

Material, both solid and liquid, pumped out of septic and holding tanks is generally referred to as septage. Septage may come from residential, commercial or institutional sources, but no matter where it comes from, it is raw and untreated. Given that septage is untreated, there are strict regulations in place that dictate how septage is disposed of. In Ontario, a few of the methods used to dispose of septage include:

Treatment at Sewage Treatment Plants (STP) – approximately 40% of Ontario’s septage is treated at a STP. A STP must be designed to accept septage and have capacity available. Many smaller STP are not designed to treat septage.

Dewatering trenches – are commonly used for disposal of septage in Northern Ontario. The septage is put into a series of trenches, similar to the runs in a traditional leaching field.

Waste stabilization lagoons – are designed to treat septage solids. These are generally found in rural areas where lots of land is available.

Land Applied – but this is coming to an end. The Ministry of Environment (MOE) has stated that it is committed to prohibiting the application untreated septage to land.

Certain times of the year, like in the winter, septage must be stored. Temporary storage of septage is permitted at Ministry approved sites, often in tanks or lagoons. These sites must meet stringent design and operation requirements and all must have a Certificate of Approval (CoA) from the MOE.

For more information on septage from the MOE please visit http://www.ene.gov.on.ca/envision/land/septage/septage.htm

The Importance of a Sense of Humour

It's a dirty, smelly business, but people who pump out septic tanks often have a great sense of humour about it. Check out these slogans from septic pumpers and their trucks.

• Your number 2 is our number 1!
• Yesterdays meals on wheels
• Another load of political promises
• You dump it...we pump it
• Thanks for flushing our business down the drain!
• Money in the tank
• You think your job sucks
• Satisfaction guaranteed or 110% of your product back!
• Got poop?
• A flush beast a full house!
• Back off! We ain't haulin' milk!
• After the first whiff, call Cliff
• Your poop is our bread and butter!
• Your brown is our green
• The wizard of ooze.

U.N. looking at septic tanks as source of cholera outbreak in Haiti

Investigators from the U.N. are looking for the source of the Haiti cholera outbreak and that search has led them to septic tanks. Cholera, a bacterial infection which is often transmitted through contaminated food or water, hasn't been recorded in Haiti since the early 20th century, yet has recently spread throughout the country. So far, over 4,000 people have been sickened, and the source of the outbreak is under investigation. The search thus far, has led to septic tanks as a possible source.

AP Photo/Ramon Espinosa

Currently, the U.N. is investigating a Nepalese peacekeeping base as a possible source of the outbreak. Associated Press (AP) reports broken and overflowing septic tanks on the base and septage following from the tanks down to a nearby river, where people regularly bathe, drink and wash clothes. The U.N. has taken samples from the broken septic tanks to test for cholera. To read the full AP story click here.

While it remains to be seen whether the Nepalese base is the source of the cholera outbreak, this story highlights the, sometimes extreme, dangers that poorly functioning septic systems can have on human health. The impact of a malfunctioning septic system can be large and wide-spread if untreated waste is allowed to enter groundwater or surface water. To prevent contamination of groundwater and surface water resources, and protect your health and the health of your neighbours, make sure your septic system is in good working order; have regular pump-outs, get your tank inspected, conserve water and don't abuse your system.

Septic Systems Gone Bad!

The horror! Click the picture below to view a larger version of these septic systems gone bad.

Conserving Water

It’s important to save water, as it is a valuable resource that needs to shared; however conserving water in the household also benefits your septic system!

Why conserve?

• Conserving water in the house means less wastewater needs to be treated by your on site septic system.
• Limiting the amount of water entering the system allows the leaching field to disperse and absorb the wastewater effectively.
• Too much water can overload the system!
• Water conservation is the key to a healthy septic system as well as an important part of septic system maintenance.
• If there is excessive water use in the house, the water will move too quickly through the system and the solids may not have time to settle out, therefore flowing into the leaching field.
• Solids in the leaching bed can clog pipes and damage the overall system. 

Water Conservation Tips

An average Canadian uses close to 329 litres of water a day (that makes us the second highest consumers of water in the world!). There are many ways you as a homeowner can reduce the amount of water being used in your house.

Fix leaky faucets: Leaking taps or toilets have been known to waste over 50 liters a day allowing excess water to go through the septic system.

Install efficient toilets: Anywhere from 16 to 23 liters of water is used every time the toilet is flushed. Low flush or high efficiency toilets reduce the amount of water being used by 50%. For example, a dual toilet uses 3 liters of water for liquid waste and only 6 liters for solid waste.

Install energy efficient appliances: Not only do these appliances such as washing machines and dishwashers save energy, but they use up to 20% less water.

Use appropriate water level or load size selection: Only wash full loads of laundry to reduce the number of cycles, and spread these cycles out throughout the week.

Change the water flow: Installing an aerator on faucets will reduce the flow by twenty five to fifty percent and a low flow showerhead will reduce about half the amount of water used in the shower.

Kitchen Tips: When getting a glass of water, keep a pitcher of water in the refrigerator instead of waiting for the water to run cold from the tap. Also never leave the tap running when cooking or washing dishes!

Phosphorus and phosphor-you

Phosphorus is usually present in bodies of water as phosphates. In moderate amounts, phosphorus is an essential nutrient for the healthy growth of aquatic plants and animals. Proper levels yield more food for fish and other wildlife.

However, excess amounts of phosphorus in the form of phosphates in bodies of water can negatively affect aquatic environments. When phosphorus is found at levels greater than 0.04 mg/L, it can over stimulate plant growth, causing rapid growth of plants including algae. As the nutrient levels increase there is more plants growing. These plants use up mass amounts of oxygen, thus decreasing the amount of oxygen available for other organisms to use. Fish and other aquatic species can die due to the lack of oxygen. As these plants die and begin to decompose via aerobic bacteria, oxygen concentrations within the water decrease making it hard for other species to live or grow there. After the algae dies, the decomposing algae can wash up along the shore, resulting in a dark, smelly substance coating the shoreline.

From lawns to lakes
Phosphorus occurs naturally in rocks and other mineral deposits; however human activity and weather are other sources of phosphorus. For example, phosphorus levels can become high in aquatic environments following heavy rainfall. This is because rain creates runoff from lawns or agricultural land that has been sprayed with fertilizers containing phosphates. When it rains, varying amounts of phosphates wash away from lawns or farmlands and into nearby waterways. Also, malfunctioning or faulty septic systems can cause high levels of nitrates and phosphates to flow directly into bodies of water. Overflowing systems will result in raw sewage pooling over top of the system and rainfall can easily wash this nutrient rich effluent into waterways. Your leaching bed is designed to filter out harmful nutrients and other contaminants, if it’s not functioning properly, these nutrients will reach aquatic environments. Many household products contain phosphates too, which adds excess phosphates to your septic system that could reach waterways.

Keeping phosphorus out of our waterways
Excess phosphorus causes odors, aesthetic issues, and beach closures. Luckily, homeowners can reduce the chance of excess nutrients reaching our waterways.   Be sure to always maintain your septic system by getting it inspected and pumped out regularly so your system can properly filter out excess nutrients. Also, when purchasing household cleaners, look for phosphate free products to keep our waterways looking beautiful.

Septic System Anatomy

Can't Find Your Septic Tank?

Did you just move into your house or cottage? Do you know when the last time the septic tank was pumped out and do you know where the septic system  is? Many people find themselves unsure of the location of their septic tank and leaching bed when they buy or inherit a home or cottage. If you don’t know where, it’s important to find out – not only to make getting regular pump-outs easier, but also so you can avoid building or planting trees or gardens over your leaching bed.

Here are some tips on what you can do to try and find your septic system:

• Contact the previous owner and ask them where the septic tank and leaching bed are.
• Contact your local health unit. If you live in Huron-Kinloss, contact the Grey Bruce Health Unit at 1-800-263-3456. If your septic system was installed after 1974 they may have a permit on file with a diagram showing the location of the septic system when it was installed. If not, they will be able to give you tips on what to look for.
• You can also ask local pumpers if they have ever serviced the property. They may have a recollection or record of where the system is.
• Find the main waste line out of the house/cottage. Look in the lowest part of the building, usually the basement or crawlspace. It’s usually a 4 to 6 inch pipe that goes out of the building and connects to the septic tank.  Make note of its location. This will give you an idea of where to start looking for the tank outside.
• Look for clues outside.
• In the winter, patches where the snow has melted can indicate the location of the tank.
• Look for rectangular depressions roughly 4ft by 8ft in size. The soil around septic tanks can settle over time, creating a depression where the septic tank is.
• In the summer look for areas of grass that are greener than the rest. The area that stays greener or has thicker grass may be the site of the leaching bed.
• Spongy or wet areas of the lawn may be the site of a failing leaching bed.
• When you figure out where the system is make sure you mark the location of the tank. Draw a map with measurements and landmarks.
• If you have no history on the last tank pump-out, call a local pumper to arrange for an inspection.
• Consider having access risers added your system. PVC risers can be added to make your lid flush with the ground – saving you from digging up your lawn every time the system needs pumped. The lids are watertight, secure and because they are made of high-density polyethylene, they don’t rust or corrode! 

Warning  Old septic systems can be a safety risk – some may have rotten wooden lids or cracked, eroded cement or steel lids. If you step on a rotten or cracked lid, you could end up in the tank, and that could be fatal. Never inspect or pump-out a septic tank yourself. Don't open the lid either, deadly gases in the tank can quickly overwhelm you, so leave opening the tank, inspecting the tank, and pumping out the tank to a licensed professional!

Winter is a-coming! Winter and your septic system

Your septic system can feel the wrath of winter too, when the snow falls and the temperature drops, remember to keep your septic system bundled up!

Depending on your system, location, and water use, your septic system could freeze during the winter months. The pipe connecting the house to the tank, the septic tank, the pipe connecting the septic tank to the leaching field and the leaching field are the parts of the system that commonly freeze up if not properly protected.

It’s important as a homeowner to maintain your system and have regular inspections prior to the winter months; however septic systems need to be kept warm during the winter too! Systems are more likely to freeze up during cold periods with no snow as oppose to periods with snowfall. To insulate your septic system simply place a foot of mulch (grass clippings, straw, hay or leaves) over top of it or let the grass grow long in the fall. The mulch and/or grass act as a snow fence and will catch the snow. Adequate snow cover benefits the system as it acts as natural insulator. The air spaces between the snow flakes trap warm air creating an insulating blanket over the soil. For additional insulation, Styrofoam sheets can be installed above the septic tank.

Your septic tank can freeze from a combination of problems or from one major issue, some of the common causes of septic system freezing include:

• Lack of snow cover: snow acts as an insulator, without adequate cover the system is exposed to the cold temperatures.
• Compacted snow: if there are no spaces between the snow flakes, there is little insulation.
• Compacted soil: pipes in the leaching bed can break or shift if the soil is compacted.
• Lack of plant cover: grasses and plants provide insulation as well as trap snow.
• Leaky pipes, faucets, or toilets: water constantly dripping into the system can cause freezing.
• Irregular use of system: little water use yields freezing in the system as there is no movement through the system.
• Waterlogged system: if the leaching bed is saturated with wastewater, it could freeze solid in winter.

If your system freezes, make sure you call a qualified septic professional as soon as possible. Never use car antifreeze, salt, or additives in attempt to thaw out your system by yourself. Also, do not run water continually through the system or use fire to unfreeze the system.

To keep your septic system protected from the harsh conditions of winter, make sure to place mulch over your system, keep snowmobiles (and all other vehicles) off the leaching field, routinely check toilets and faucets for leaks, as well as get your system inspected before winter to make sure there are no cracks or leaks.

September Septic Social

We had another Septic Social on Saturday at the Pine River United Church. Thanks to those who came out despite the rain clouds and wind. Also, a special thanks to our host the Pine River United Church. Septic inspections will be continuing throughout September, October and November, so if you got a letter and haven't booked an inspection we encourage you to call the Township to set up an appointment!

A Thing of Beauty - Landscaping and Septic Systems

Your septic system doesn’t have to stick out like a sore thumb, a little bit of simple landscaping will allow your system to blend into the rest of your lawn. A well designed landscape plan with the appropriate plant cover will help the system become part of the overall landscape and benefit the system as well. Proper vegetation cover prevents soil erosion, provides insulation, protects the system from freezing and ensures your on-site septic system will continue to work properly. Remember that structures such as patios, tool sheds or deck should not be constructed on your septic system as they will compact the soil, could potentially damage your system and limit access for pump-outs and repairs.

What to plant?
When deciding what to plant over your system, remember that deep rooted plants can clog and harm the pipes in the leaching bed. Also, choose vegetation that prefer dry soil and require no additional watering as extra water can reduce the system’s ability to absorb and treat household wastewater. Vegetable plants will not protect the system from soil erosion. Trees and shrubs should be planted far away from your system (minimum distance of 6 metres) as they have extensive root systems.  Therefore grasses and shallow rooted native plants are a good choice to plant as their roots won’t damage the pipes and they require little maintenance which will keep excess weight off the leaching bed.

The Planting Process
If your system is new, it’s a good idea to start planting on the leaching bed right away to avoid soil erosion, but do not add a lot of soil because the bed requires good ventilation to function. Grasses do an excellent job of holding the soil together to prevent soil erosion. After the grass has been planted, water the new plants once and then allow them to draw moisture and nutrients from the ground, there’s no need to add excess water! When maintaining your lawn, don’t be afraid to cut the grass growing on the leaching field. However, let the grass grow before winter as the grass will catch the snow thus providing insulation for the system and preventing the system from freezing. Make sure you know where your system is located to minimize traffic on the leaching bed.

Proper landscaping will ensure protection to your system and allow your septic system to become part of your lawn!

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September Septic Social
Mark your calendar! This Saturday (September 18th) we're having a Septic Social at the Pine River United Church. The social starts at 10 with a demonstration of an inspection and quick overview of the HK-CSI program. The inspector will be there to take questions as well as staff from BMRoss. For more information click here.

You're Invited to Septic Social!

We're having another septic social, this time at the Pine River United Church (corner of Concession 4 and Highway 21) on Saturday September 18th. This is a great opportunity to see what happens during an inspection, see what the inspector is looking for, ask questions and learn about the HK-CSI program! The social starts at 10 AM and while have coffee and snacks too!

Back to School!

It's that time of year again-yes, the kids are going back to school. Septic pumpers don't have to go back to school, but if they did, they might take this kind of bus:



Have a great (and safe) Labour Day weekend!

Septic System Additives

The only thing that should be “added” to your septic system is household wastewater. However, there are many products that claim to enhance the performance of your system, guarantee less frequent pump-outs or even repair your system! Don’t be fooled though, these products are unnecessary, expensive, and may shorten the life of your system! Known as septic additives, these products are marketed as septic system starters, feeders, or cleaners, but whatever the name they do not need to be part of your septic system maintenance routine.

Starters are advertised to get the system going after the tank has been pumped out or when opening the cottage after being away for the winter; essentially the product is bacteria in a bottle. However, your system does not need bacteria to be added-every flush yields more than enough bacteria for the system to work properly!

Feeders claim to provide food for bacteria by adding yeast or other biological products for the bacteria to munch on. Fortunately, the wastewater entering the tank is the only food the bacteria needs, so there is no need to add any extra bacteria food. This is true for those old septic system remedies too (liver, beer or raw chicken) don't need to be added to your system.

Some cleaners are marketed with the slogan “never pump your tank again”. These products work by breaking down the sludge in the tank. The liquefied sludge exit the tank and flows to the leaching bed. The liquefied sludge can return to a solid form in the leaching bed and plug up the tiles This means wastewater won't be properly treated and your system may back up. Keep in mind that the purpose of a septic tank is to allow the scum to float to the top and the solids to settle on the bottom, leaving only the clear effluent to flow to the leaching bed for further treatment. Those solids are supposed to be in the tank!

The breakdown of sludge in the septic tank is a natural process which does need any help from chemicals. Encouraging homeowners not to pump out their tanks can have disastrous long term effects. There is no evidence which supports the effectiveness of any chemical treatment. Periodic pumping (every 3-5 years!) is a much better way to ensure your septic system will work properly for many years. Additives are not substitutes for proper care and maintenance of your system, so save your system and your pocketbook, keep additives out!

To see what the experts say about septic system additives click here

Appliances and Septic Systems

Some household appliances are harder on septic systems then others, so it is best to use precautions when using the following appliances to ensure your system is safe.

Water softeners present two major problems to your septic system. This appliance pumps extra gallons of water all at once into your system; this stirs up the solids in the tank which yields excess flow into the leaching field. Also, water softeners use salt to soften hard water, however, too much salt in your septic tank can decrease bacterial action. It is usually recommended that water softener discharge into a grey-water pit. For more information on grey-water pits, contact the Grey Bruce Health Unit.

Hot tubs are a great way to relax after a long day, however they can be stressful on your septic system! If a hot tubs drains into your septic system they can cause an overload as the solids in the tank will be stirred up and pushed into the leaching field. Solids in the leaching bed can then clog the pipes, resulting in system failure. To avoid this, simply cool the water from the hot tub and drain it over a grassy area away from your leaching bed and residence. Keep excess water far away from your septic system!

And while you’re at it, keep excess solids out of your system too!

Did you know having a garbage disposal in your kitchen sink can increase the amount of solids in your septic tank by up to fifty percent? Garburators put extra solids in your septic tank and increase the amount of sludge and scum in your tank, meaning your tank will have to be pumped out more frequently. Eliminating garbage disposals would mean the amount of grease and solids entering the leaching bed would be greatly reduced. However if you can’t live without your garburator, be prepared to pump your tank annually.

When doody calls - Sewage and Septic Sucking Services

Many people say the key to success in any business is advertising. With this in mind, we present you with some septic pumping ads courtesy of Winston Rothschild III of Rothschild's Sewage and Septic Sucking Services.

Holding Tanks

A holding tank is an alternative method to treat domestic wastewater and differs from the typical septic system which consists of a septic tank and leaching bed. They are usually a last resort for permanent residences and more common among seasonal cottages. A holding tank consists of only a watertight vessel designed to store untreated household wastewater. Holding tanks are typically constructed of polyethylene, concrete, or fiberglass. Residents may have to install a holding tank, as opposed to a full septic system, due to limiting soil conditions, or proximity to water, neighbours etc. The main difference between a holding tank and a septic tank is a holding tank does not allow any of its content to leach away into the ground, whereas a septic tank releases partially treated wastewater to run through a leaching field for a second stage of treatment. When the wastewater enters the holding tank from the house, it stays there until a hauler pumps it out.

Since effluent does not drain into the soil, contents must be pumped out more frequently and hauled away. Depending on the size of the tank along with water usage, holding tanks may have to be pumped anywhere from every two weeks to every eight weeks. It’s important to get your holding tank pumped out as failure to do so will lead to wastewater backing up in the house. However, many newer holding tanks equipped with alarms which let the homeowner know that the tank needs to be pumped out.

Many residents have a written agreement with the sewage hauler which states the hauler will pump out the holding tank at reasonable intervals to avoid overfilling of the tank. Therefore, it is crucial that the holding tank be located and installed to accommodate regular removal of sewage. It is the responsibility of the homeowner to maintain their holding tank, if the tank gets damaged, untreated effluent could enter the surrounding soil and potentially reach the groundwater. Water conservation in the house is encouraged to decrease volume of wastewater entering the holding tank.

Don'tcha Put it Down the Drain!

Septic systems are not garbage cans! They are designed to treat household wastewater, and can only “digest” certain things. What you flush down the drain has a major impact on how well your septic system works. Many common household products and chemicals can harm or clog your septic system if flushed down the drain.

Septic systems rely on naturally occurring bacteria to break down organic materials within the septic tank. Even small amounts of household products can kill the good, helpful bacteria in your tank leaving nothing to break down the solid waste. Be sure to limit the use of anti-bacterial soaps and detergents in your household as these products are designed to kill or inhibit bacterial action. 

To keep the essential bacteria alive and digesting do not put the following products down the drain:

• Anti-freeze
• Anti-bacterial soap
• Bleach-based cleaning products
• Drain cleaner
• Gasoline
• Paints
• Paint Thinners
• Nail Polish Remover
• Pesticides
• Pharmaceuticals
• Toilet Bowl Cleaner
• Varnish

Also, products that do not break down naturally or anything that takes a long time to break down should not be flushed down the drain. These products can clog pipes, fill the septic tank up more quickly, and decrease the overall effectiveness of the system. Soap and detergent scum can also plug the soil pores which could cause the system to fail.

For a clog-free septic system, never flush the following products down the drain:

•  Baby Wipes
• Cat Box Litter
• Cigarette Butts
• Coffee Grinds
• Condoms
• Dental Floss
• Diapers
• Egg Shells
• Fat, Oil and Grease
• Kitchen Scraps
• Paper Towels
• Tampons and Applicators

Cottages and Septic Systems

Just because you’re on vacation doesn’t mean your septic system is! Many cottages rely upon on-site sewage disposal, meaning you must take care of your cottage septic system. Regular pump outs and inspections are absolutely necessary to maintaining your system. Since most cottages serve as a part time residences, how often your tank needs to be pumped out depends on usage. For example, a large family that tends to use a lot of water all summer may need the tank pumped out every three years compared to a weekend couple, using little water, who may only need their system pumped every five years. The best time to get your tank pumped out is in late summer or early fall as the ground will not be frozen or wet and the bacteria can re-establish themselves before it gets too cold. Prior to calling a licensed septic professional to get your tank pumped out, make sure you know where both the tank and the bed are located on your property.  

Many residents have also started to expand their cottages, generally adding more bedrooms and bathrooms. However, it is important to consider the size of your septic tank when doing so. The size of the tank relates to the number of people using the cottage so before you buy or expand a cottage have the septic system inspected to see if the tank is appropriately sized for your usage. Also, if you plan on using the cottage more (spend all summer there, rather than just weekends), it is recommended that you ensure your system can handle the load.

Waterfront Properties

 Attention waterfront property owners! Waterfront properties tend to have wetter soils and a high groundwater table, which can pose challenges for septic systems. Moist soil conditions can make your system less efficient and can allow harmful pollutants to get into groundwater and nearby water bodies. As a waterfront property owner it is necessary to get your tank pumped out frequently to ensure that excess nutrients like phosphorus and nitrogen are not polluting surface waters. Make sure you give these septic systems the special attention they need!

Tank TV: Dirty Jobs - Septic Tank Technician

Mike Rowe, from the Discovery Channel series Dirty Jobs, took on the task of cleaning out a septic tank. To watch Mike tackle the tank, click here.

Photo Credit: Discovery Channel

Maintaining Your Septic System Part II

As you know, maintaining your septic system can benefit your pocketbook, the environment and human health. There are many simple steps you as a homeowner can follow to extend the life of your system and protect your septic system from damage. A typical system consists of two components: a septic tank and a leaching bed, and both parts require maintenance.

Treat your tank with care

It is important to have your tank pumped out every three to five years by a professional to remove all sludge and scum buildup as well as have your tank inspected to look for leaks or cracks. One thing homeowners can do to maximize the efficiency and life span of their tank is to conserve water in the house. Less water entering the tank means less wastewater that needs to be treated. This means you should spread out laundry loads, fix all leaks, and invest in high efficiency appliances. Also, watch what you put down the drain, only materials that break down naturally should be getting flushed away. Do not use your toilets and sinks as garbage cans!

Love your leaching bed

Your leaching bed plays an important role in the treatment of household wastewater; it requires simple maintenance in order to perform properly. For instance, all vehicles should stay off the leaching bed as excess weight will compact the soil and the water will not drain properly under these soil conditions. In addition to affecting the soil, heavy objects such as structures or vehicles can damage the tiles and pipes within the leaching bed. Also, only plant grass over your bed, other vegetation, like trees have roots that can clog the tiles. Another tip to protect your leaching bed is to direct all surface water sources (roof drains, runoff) away from your system, a flooded leaching bed will result in a slower treatment process.

With these tips, you should have a happy and functional septic system!

Minimum Setback Distances for New Septic Systems in Ontario

The image below shows the minimum setbacks for new septic systems as required by the Ontario building code. To view a larger version, please click the image (it will open in a new window). 

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Maintaining Your Septic System

Septic systems are the responsibility of the homeowner; this means it is your job to keep your system working properly. You may ask yourself, why should I maintain my system? Just like a car, your septic system requires regular maintenance to keep it running smoothly. By maintaining your system, you are protecting human health and the environment, and most importantly extending the life of your system (saving you money in the long run).
For instance, it is less expensive to maintain your system by getting regular inspections and pump-outs than it is to have your system replaced. Failing septic systems are expensive to repair or replace. Your septic tank should be pumped clean of sludge and scum every three to five years depending on your level of use. Often, seasonal cottages need pumped out less frequently (every 4-5 years) than permanent residences (every 3 years).It is equally as important to have regular septic system inspections to ensure that septic system components, like baffles and filters, are working properly and are not damaged. It is more cost efficient to maintain your septic system, then to ignore it and have to replace it later on.

Also, you can protect the environment and human health by taking good care of your system. Typical pollutants in household wastewater include nitrogen, phosphorus, and disease causing bacteria and viruses. If a septic system is working properly it will remove most of these pollutants. However, a failed septic system will inadequately treat sewage and may cause groundwater contamination as the pollutants leach into the groundwater. Human health and drinking water could be threatened if pollutants reach nearby wells. Everyone must play a role in protecting drinking water sources, maintaining your septic system is an excellent way to start!

Keep in mind that septic systems have a typical lifespan of 15 to 25 years; however, by maintaining all aspects of your system you can maximize the lifespan of your system. There are many steps homeowners can take to keep their system functioning properly and lasting longer.

Silver Lake Septic Social

Councillor Jim Hanna kindly hosted a septic social for residents of the Silver Lake area of the Township, on July 10, 2010. Residents from the area were invited and about a dozen came out to see an inspection. We were happy to answer residents questions and show them what an inspection entails. Special thanks to Conucillor Hanna, for being such a great host, as well as Jason Cranny, septic inspector for the Grey Bruce Health Unit.

Check out our great pictures from the social, below!

Blairs Grove Septic Social

On July10, 2010, Huron-Kinloss Mayor Mitch Twolan hosted a septic social at his residence. Neighbours from Blairs Grove and Lurgan Beach were invited to come and meet the inspector and see how inspections are done. Thanks to: the Mayor for hosting the social, Jason Cranny, septic inspector from the Grey Bruce Health Unit, and Murray Irvin from Porter's.

Check out the pictures of the social below!

Danger Down Below - Forgotten Septic Tanks

Old and abandoned septic tanks, holding tanks or cesspools may be a hidden hazard lurking on your property. Over time, these cement structures erode and can collapse, creating sink holes. In some cases the collapse may not occur until someone or something walks or moves over the old tank. When someone falls into an abandoned septic tank, they can be seriously injured or even killed. In Allentown, New Jersey a 2-year old boy fell into an abandoned cesspool on his family's property. Luckily, his mother saw him fall and was able to pull him to safety. Check out the full story here.

It's important to property decommission any old septic tanks, holding tanks or cesspools. Decommissioning a septic tank involves pumping out the septic tank and then filling it with appropriate material, typically pea-gravel or sand (depending on local regulations). Around the septic tank, the soil is backfilled to a level slightly higher than the ground to allow for settling.

For more information on septic system decommissioning, please refer to the Grey Bruce Health Unit's website.

Go green when you clean

Did you know that your cleaning products may be harming your septic tank? Some cleaning products can be hard on your septic system as well as the environment. For instance, just a small amount of drain cleaner or bleach can kill the good bacteria in your tank that help break down sludge and scum. Many common cleaners also contain harmful chemicals and phosphates which can negatively affect water quality in nearby bodies of water, in addition to harming your system.

However, many pharmacies and grocery stores now offer green cleaning products like laundry detergents, dishwater detergent, dish soap, glass cleaners, and all purpose cleaners which are biodegradable, dye-free, phosphate-free, and contain less harsh chemicals when compared to regular cleaners. To minimize the amount of harmful chemicals going down the drain to your septic tank, switch to green cleaning products. 

Also, you can use natural cleaners that make excellent disinfectants, all purpose cleaners and drain cleaners. Common household items such as boiling water, lemon juice, washing soda, Borax, liquid soap, and white vinegar can be used to keep your kitchen, bathroom, and living room sparkling without harming your septic tank or the environment!   

So before you reach for the bleach, opt to use more tank-friendly cleaning products to keep your system (and the environment) happy!

How Septic Systems Work

When properly cared for, a septic system makes an excellent on-site wastewater treatment centre, located conveniently in your back yard. It is an arrangement of tanks, pipes, and surrounding soil which work together to treat household wastewater.

The treatment process begins when household wastewater enters the septic tank through an inlet tee. The septic tank is a buried, watertight container typically made of concrete, fiberglass or polyethylene and consists of two chambers. As the wastewater flows into the septic tank, the heavy solids settle to the bottom of the tank, forming a sludge layer. Lighter materials such as fats, oils, or grease float to the top forming a scum layer, leaving partially treated wastewater in the middle. Baffles and screens within the tank keep the scum from escaping to the leaching bed. The sludge and scum layers are acted upon by naturally occurring bacteria which work in the anaerobic (oxygen-poor) conditions of the tank and slowly decompose the solid waste. They cannot decompose all the solid waste, therefore, it is important to have your tank pumped out every three to five years. Newer tanks generally have risers with lids at the ground surface to allow easy location, inspection and pumping of the tank.

Next, the partially treated wastewater flows out of the tank by an outlet tee, where it will begin the next step of treatment in the leaching bed. The leaching bed consists of a series of perforated drain pipes. As the wastewater enters the pipes it slowly percolates down from the pipes and into the soil. The soil organisms and the soil itself act as filters by removing nutrients, toxins, bacteria, metals and organisms from the wastewater. As the wastewater continues to move down through the soil, pollutants are removed and eventually the treated water returns to the groundwater system.

Even though your septic system is out of sight, it plays an important role in treating household wastewater. So make sure you maintain your system by getting it inspected and pumped out every three to five years by a professional!

On the lighter side

Recently I was asked by a funeral director to play at a graveside service for a homeless man. He had no family or friends, so the service was to be at a pauper's cemetery in the Kentucky back country. As I was not familiar with the backwoods, I got lost and, being a typical man, I didn't stop for directions. I finally arrived an hour late and saw the funeral guy had evidently gone and the hearse was nowhere in sight. There were only the diggers and crew left and they were eating lunch. I felt badly and apologized to the men for being late. I went to the side of the grave and looked down and the vault lid was already in place. I didn't know what else to do, so I started to play. The workers put down their lunches and began to gather around. I played out my heart and soul for this man with no family and friends. I played like I've never played before for this homeless man. And as I played 'Amazing Grace,' the workers began to weep. They wept, I wept, we all wept together. When I finished I packed up my bagpipes and started for my car. Though my head hung low, my heart was full.

As I opened the door to my car, I heard one of the workers say, "I never seen nothin' like that before and I've been putting in septic tanks for twenty years."

Apparently I'm still lost.

Thinking of replacing your old septic system - check out the minimum separation distances

The following diagram illustrates the required provincial minimum separation distances for septic systems:

New Septic System Technologies to Retrofit Your Current Septic Tank

More and more companies are developing innovative ways to improve septic systems and to extend their life span. 

Some of these technologies include:

Adding parts, such as filters, to stop grease and solids from entering the leaching bed.

Installation of plastic risers to make tank access easier - eliminates digging to locate the septic tank lid when it is time for a pump-out.

"SEPTIC SOCIAL" - SILVER LAKE (FORMER KINLOSS) - SAT. JULY 10TH, 10:00 AM - 12:00 NOON

Councillor Jim Hanna  is hosting a "Septic Social" at his home 1572 Bruce Rd. 1, on Sat. July 10th from
10:00 am - 12:00 pm. 

Come out and see a H-K Community Septic System Inspection. Learn what the program is about, meet the Inspector and see how inspections are being done. Meet your neighbours - free refreshments!

"SEPTIC SOCIAL" - BLAIR'S GROVE / LURGAN BEACH - SAT. JULY 10TH, 1:30 PM - 3:30 PM

The Mayor of the Township of Huron-Kinloss, Mitch Twolan is hosting a "Septic Social" on Sat. July 10th at his home, 20 Blair's Grove, Blair's Grove, from 1:30 - 3:30 pm. 

Come out and see a Community Septic System Inspection. Learn what the program is about, meet the inspector and see how inspections are being done. Meet your neighbours - free refreshments!

Welcome to our new blog!

Welcome to the new Huron-Kinloss Community Septic Inspections (HK-CSI) Program blog! The purpose of this blog is to provide an interactive information source for all things related to septic systems and, of course, the HK-CSI program.

Here’s a quick list of just some of the topics we’ll be posting about:

•     How septic systems work
•     Parts of a septic systems
•     Septic system maintenance
•     New septic system technology
•     Types of septic systems
•     HK-CSI updates and events

As with most blogs, we encourage people to post comments and questions, start discussions, or even suggestions for future posts. We’ll also be posting pictures from our events like our past ‘Septic Inspection Demonstration’ days. 

Feel free to add www.hkcsi.blogspot.com to your bookmarks and check back regularly!